The Dingle peninsula is the most westerly part of Ireland with its inhabitants surviving on subsistence farming and fishing for centuries. But for at least a century now it has been recognised as an area of outstanding natural beauty brought to an international audience by Sir David Lean’s 1970 two time Oscar winner Ryan’s Daughter. There is something breathtaking in the conjunction of land, sea and sky and there is a quality of light here quite unlike anywhere else. The town of Dingle is the place to be as it is the centre of tourism on the peninsula and manages to provide all that is needed for the intrepid traveller with a smile and a polite enquiry as to how you are enjoying your time there.
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Dingle
Thursday, February 18th, 2010 by Fastnet LineIveragh Peninsula
Thursday, February 18th, 2010 by Fastnet LineThe Iveragh Peninsula is known the world over as the “Ring of Kerry” a driving experience or day trip for the uninitiated; but this large area encompassing Ireland’s highest mountains, lakes, moorland and spectacular coastline is a destination worth investigating at a more leisurely pace. The towns and villages that lasso the peninsula each have a unique character from Killorglin with its unique annual festival which crowns a goat as King for three days (10th -12th August 2010), to the magnificent beaches of Glenbeigh, to Cahirciveen, Waterville, Caherdaniel and Sneem. The visitor is well catered for with places to eat and stay in comfort at all points along the way.
Kenmare
Thursday, February 18th, 2010 by Fastnet LineKenmare reached by the spectacular Caha Pass road from Glengarriff is the first major town in County Kerry as you cross over the county boundary. Before arriving in Kenmare you pass through the hamlet of Bonane with its impressive Heritage Park giving a real insight into the archaeology of an area which has been inhabited for thousands of years. There is a wealth of information here and the park is open all year round.
Kenmare itself on the river estuary which bears its name is a town dating from 1670 and is a charming destination which has been loved by generations of visitors. It is surrounded on all sides by areas of outstanding natural beauty and the bay contains a multitude of aquatic wildlife including sea birds of all types, seal colonies and otters all to be seen from the highly recommended “Seafari” cruise around the bay. In common with so many towns there are a multitude of places to eat in Kenmare with the finest local produce available to suit all pockets. Outdoor activities of all types abound from the usual hill walking, golf, fishing, cycling to more organised sailing and kayaking and outdoor pursuits at the Star Outdoors Adventure centre.
Macroom
Thursday, February 18th, 2010 by Fastnet LineThe ancient garrison town of Macroom in the heart of the Lee Valley is both the hub and gateway to a fascinating region which contains spectacular scenery and rural Gaelic speaking communities which are living breathing organisms of an ancient culture not preserved, but thriving. The town serves as the main commercial centre for a network of villages in its hinterland but is a worthwhile base for exploring at a more leisurely pace the surrounding countryside. Nearby Gougane Barra (the retreat of St. Finbarr) is one of Ireland’s gems with a lake surrounded by imposing forested hills giving great walking trails and unforgettable views. Further west along the N22 is Ballyvourney a Gaeltacht (Irish speaking) area and last village on the road before County Kerry. The area boasts outstanding natural beauty and walking and cycling trails as well as Ireland’s only toy soldier factory and visitor centre.
Dunmanway/Drimoleague
Thursday, February 18th, 2010 by Fastnet LineDunmanway is a planned town dating from the 17th Century and famous for being the birthplace of Sam Maguire who gave his name to the All-Ireland Football trophy competed for each year by the teams of the 32 counties of the island of Ireland. Activities of all sorts can be attempted from here with walking and cycling particularly well catered for. The annual horse fair and races in August each year is an ancient tradition dating back hundreds of years. The little village of Drimoleague just 14 kilometres ( 8 miles) down the road was an important railway junction up until the 1960s and in recent years the old railway yard has become the trailhead for a network of signposted walking trails taking the walker up into the hills surrounding the village and along ancient river paths with enough variety and levels of exertion to suit all abilities.
Castletownbere/Beara Peninsula
Thursday, February 18th, 2010 by Fastnet LineCastletownbere is the main town on the Beara Peninsula, a working fishing port and focus of commercial activity of this region. It caters well for the traveller in search of sustenance or a place to stay and time spent in this area is rewarded by unforgettable memories. The ancient landscape bears the signs of human settlement from the earliest times and there is something elemental in the interaction of landscape, light, ocean and mountain. Once again the outdoors beckons at every turn, with fishing, hillwalking, cycling and sightseeing being key activities. The old copper mines at Allihies have a fascinating story to tell dating back thousands of years and the museum there is well worth a visit. The first sight of the village itself from a distance is one never forgotten and on a sunny day the nearby beach is a hive of activity for young and old alike.
Glengarriff
Thursday, February 18th, 2010 by Fastnet Line
The town takes its name from the Gaelic An Gleann Garbh (the wild or rugged valley) and the visitor is left in no doubt as to why. This village is centred on a beautiful harbour studded with rock tree covered islands backed by bare rocky hills giving it a magnificent setting even by any standard. Everywhere you look there are scenes just begging to be photographed or just simply contemplated as well as walks and forest paths which yield their natural rewards at every turn of the trail. Garnish Island is worth a visit being just minutes by boat from the harbour but all around are samples of flora and fauna that make this area a naturalists paradise. The visitor is well catered for with a variety of places to stay, to eat and drink which is why Glengarriff has been a firm favourite for generations of visitors.
Glandore/Union Hall
Thursday, February 18th, 2010 by Fastnet LineGlandore and Union Hall are another of the out of the way delights of West Cork. These two small villages at either side of the harbour reflect back at each other the beauty and peace to be found in small communities. Union Hall is still a working fishing port and the brightly painted shop fronts in the town make it seem a film set which in fact it was, being one of the locations for the 1994 film “The War of the Buttons”. Food and drink are needs never to be ignored while in this part of the world and you won’t go far wrong if fish is your food of choice. A selection of places to stay nearby means you never have to leave. Glandore has a big reputation for such a small place and the list of its cosmopolitan inhabitants year round is testimony to its beguiling qualities. Its small harbour is frequented by the sailing and cruising fraternity and there are no lack of activities should you wish to pursue them locally but in truth most people seem to like to “hang out” and enjoy the food, wine and conversation which is the social currency here. Nearby Drombeg Stone Circle is a place which though describable, is best felt – the small circle of stones and remains of the living quarters of our ancient ancestors set on a plateau overlooking the sea is an atmospheric reminder of life three millennia ago.
Rosscarbery
Thursday, February 18th, 2010 by Fastnet LineTravelling further on the N71from Clonakilty, the causeway at Rosscarbery is a landmark unmissable to the traveller heading West separating on one side a lagoon from the shallow bay on the other when during low tide can be seen hundreds of birds feeding on the mud flats. On the hill overlooking the sea is the village of Rosscarbery born alongside a monastic settlement from the 6th Century founded by St. Fachtna. The Church of Ireland Cathedral is on a site from the 10th Century when the town was important enough to have been the seat of a Bishop. The pretty town square with its colourful shop fronts boasts a number of fine pubs and restaurants and the area is especially noted for its fine sandy beaches at The Warren and Owenahincha just a few miles away. A vibrant local community puts on an arts festival each year and sporting highlights include pitch and putt, Gaelic football and road trotting, a particular West Cork equine sport which just has to be experienced.
Clonakilty/Inchydoney
Thursday, February 18th, 2010 by Fastnet LineFurther along the R600 road brings you to Clonakilty, Ireland’s first Fairtrade town and winner of the European Destination of Excellence Award (EDEN) as the Best Emerging Rural Tourism Destination in 2007. Clonakilty is both a vibrant commercial centre and a tourism hub for an entire region. The town has a reputation for innovation and its model village (a scale replica of Clonakilty and other local towns) and tourist road train are just two of the ways in which Clonakilty draws visitors into the story of its past. Clonakilty is surrounded by fantastic beaches such as those at Inchydoney where the traditional games of beach football, sandcastle building and kite flying mingle with the more modern surf schools. Golfers are well catered for at the Lisselan Estate on the outskirts of the town although few rounds of golf elsewhere in the world include a tram and a raft in the round!
The quaint streets are packed with places to eat and drink and the live music tradition is particularly strong. Again throughout the year there are many activities organised locally from the International Car Rally, The West Cork Rally (20th and 21st March 2010), the Arts festival and the International Guitar festival. It is also internationally famous for being the birthplace of Michael Collins immortalised by the actor Liam Neeson in Neil Jordan’s 1996 eponymous film. A statue to the “Big Fella” can be seen at Emmet Square in the town which also boasts a local black pudding delicacy amongst its culinary delights.
